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This blog makes liberal use of AB's journals, letters, travel notes, and other sources.
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Tuesday, 7 May 2013
All roads in Greece are dusty (one hears) except the one that leads from Athens to the sea. This road is long and wide and straight and tarred and shiny - and dustless.
Unfortunately it is not endless. As soon as it reaches the sea it becomes something else, namely a switchback skirting the sea for miles and sunk three or four inches in pungently active dust. In time you perceive that you are entering a town, with suburbs more ragged and less finished than even the suburbs of Athens or Paris. Then you are on a high street, majestic with offices, shops and cinemas, then back into slums and clouds of flying matter; and then in the upshot you see water. You are in the port of Piraeus, Piraeus being in this instance not a sheet of water but a city.
It is in the yacht's launch, flying the British ensign, that, threading through hundreds of row-boats, you reach the Lloyd-Triestino steamer.
The ship left at 5.48, only 18 minutes late. Lovely afternoon and dusk. Smooth sea. Light wind. Lovely view of Piraeus on leaving, and marvellous views of the Acropolis half an hour later. The general atmosphere of the ship was tres sympathique. A heavenly night. Our lot played just as much cards as usual.