All at sea

Saturday, April 28th., Flying Cloud R.Y.S., at sea.

Flying Cloud

I arose at 5.45, not needing any more sleep, and ate two apples and one orange on the poop deck, talking to the officer of the watch. Neither the Captain or the other two officers are really interesting. The Captain is young and energetic but a bit boastful. Having eaten the fruit I returned to my stateroom  and wrote up my impressions of the previous day in due form for printing. It is really very easy. Shaving and bathing and so on is a great nuisance and consumer of time. Breakfast at 9.

Rudolf is usually in his dressing gown; so is David Gray, the playwright; so is Kahn sometimes. Of course they have been up later than me playing their infernal cards. I am always dressed. The meal is very plenteous. The difficulty is not to eat too much. Cigarettes are always offered before the end of each meal. There are two or three stewards to look after us. I alone have a cigar after breakfast.


The 'Boss' (as they call him, except me I always call him 'Commodore' and he always calls me 'Vice Commodore') announced the time at which he proposed to leave for an excursion, but he will alter the time if asked. Today we went ashore at Candia. Motor cars were waiting; they always are, and we drove off instantly 3 miles to Knossos, the seat of Minoan civilisation. Three palaces, one above another. Very interesting, but not big enough for my taste. Then we drove back to the museum which is far more interesting artistically than the palaces. That said, when you examine the designs closely it becomes apparent that they are largely conjectural. A lot has been made out of not very much. I feel a bit disturbed by the authenticity issue. I liked the 'Snake Goddesses' - they would cause a 'stir' in Kensington!


We returned to the quay where the launch was waiting; it always is, and we were back on the ship at 12.15. I decided to bathe and then lay on the deck in the sun to dry. It did me good. A steward came round and asked what cocktail I wanted. Kahn won't have one. Then lunch. The talk at meals is very good. It is occasionally obscene startling, and even bawdy, but very intelligent. A good group of travellers (except for the card obsession!). All have been educated by experience.

Jo Davidson

I had a sleep after lunch and then we went back into the town. Intensely hot. Met Jo Davidson and Paul Dougherty in the port. We were ferried back in instalments for tea on deck. The tea is terrific. Then more card playing. I went down to my cabin to write a bit. Kahn reads a lot and writes in his stateroom. I am reading a book by him. Full of sense. 

At 6 p.m. we weighed anchor for Santorini. Lovely dusk and night. I emerge from my cabin at intervals to tease the card players, and sometimes go out on the poop to see how the ship is getting along. Dinner at 8. very plenteous, too plenteous. I didn't eat half of it. I devoted most of my evening to a fine cigar. More cards! Drinks come round, but very little alcohol is drunk. I read a bit and walked around and at 10.30 said goodnight to Kahn and nodded to the others, and settled to write this. I shall probably sleep sometime after 11.