Art and socks

Wednesday, January 31st., 59, Rue de Grenelle, Paris.

Paul Durand-Ruel

I went to see the historic Durand Ruel collection at 35 Rue de Rome. The furniture of the flat was startlingly different in quality and taste from the pictures. All the furniture might have been bought at the Bonne Marche. The table in the dining room was covered in the chequered cloth so prevalent in small French households. In this room was a still-life of Monet. The doors however were beautifully painted panels. Aged and young domestics moved about. There was a peculiar close smell - no, not peculiar, because it permeates thousands of Paris homes.

From the front windows was seen a fine view of St. Lazaire station, with whiffs of steam transpiring from the vast edifice. The visitors while I was there included two Englishmen; one very well dressed though his socks were behind the times and he had rouged his nostrils; some Americans and four doll-like Japanese. Certainly the chief languages spoken were American and Japanese. 

The Grand Salon of Paul Durand-Ruel's flat

The 'great' Renoir (the man and woman in the H box of a theatre) hung in the study. It was rather thrilling to see this illustrious work for the first time, as it were, in the flesh. There were Monets of all periods and the latest period was not the best. A magnificent Cezanne landscape and a few other Cezannes; Manet, Degas, Sisley, Boudin - all notable. A collection very limited in scope but fully worthy of its reputation. Only it wants hanging. It simply hasn't a chance where it is. The place is far too small, and the contrast between the furniture and the pictures altogether too disconcerting. Still the collection exists and it is proof that a man can possess marvellous taste in fine art, while remaining quite insensitive in an applied art.

Later I looked in on a painter in Montmartre and learned to my astonishment that it was precisely he who had painted Durand Ruel's doors. 70 doors had been ordered. He went on to tell me a few 'inside' stories. For example the Renoir had been sold originally for 400 francs. Then Durand Ruel bought it, and now he has refused an offer of 125,000 francs. That is something to think about!